El Captain, Bitterroot Steeps

Some lines are steep, El Captain's east face is very steep, and exposed.  And lined with 1000' cliff bands.  From the east side of the Bitterroot valley, El Cap is striking to say the least.  After patiently WAITING for the PERFECT conditions I had the opportunity to attempt this committing run in mid April.

When I set up to ski a line like this, the mental planning starts days or even weeks in advance.  Everything has to be 'good to go'; not only the gear, not only the conditions, but my mind especially plays a huge role in preparing for objectives like this.  Having a good handle on current conditions at the time, and an arctic air mass - high pressure system on the way I had about a week of preparing for the attempt.  The week prior I skied the steepest shots I could find, in the worst conditions (crust, ice) that I could find.  I felt dialed, but even this couldn't help to kill the anxiety and constant thought of the mountain, the line.  The overwhelming thought those days before the trip was skiing el cap, that was it.  Focus in school became tough, and butterflies flew in my stomach every time the thought surfaced.  Excitement grew as we loaded up for the two day trip up Little Rock Creek.

Skier summit is the high cornice to the lookers left

After a late morning start and smooth approach we arrived to the lakes below El Cap / Lonesome Bachelor as sun set came in, giving us time for a quick frozen corn run on one of Lonesome Bachelors lower chutes.  An evening by the fire, as a short squall moved through was relaxing after the long week in town.

Photo:  Mickey Smith

Waking up to a low cloud deck and 1-3" of fresh at camp got us moving quickly up the south chute towards the ridge where we broke above the clouds.  The ridge was windy and cold.  After a few minor mishaps, Kevin returned to camp (gear malfunction).  Mickey and I reached the summit, greeted by clearing sky's, and diminishing wind.  These perfect conditions could not suppress my nervousness, not many words were exchanged as I gazed down the steepest, and most sustained face I was about to encounter.  Hands were shaking, making photographs up here difficult.  My stomach dropped, and still drops every time I come across the picture below.  

With very helpful beta from John I felt as if I had a good idea of the line.  Threading through the three major cliff bands, first left to a small pinch, than right across the ramp, and so on, almost looked straight forward from the approach in.   The line is far from straight forward when on top,  everything looks different standing 3000' above, with spines, cliffs, sub ridges, and rocks spouted over the face.  The pinch I so confidently spotted on the approach is no where to be seen from the top.  Knowing I could trust Johns beta down to an inch, I scooted over the near vertical cornice, carefully making turns in the alpine powder between spines, threading rocks on the upper face as my skis released small sluff slides.  Carefully checking the altimeter, I was able to locate the pinch no problem, the run went flawlessly as Mickey followed me down.  

  

                           

For technical ski descending this face has it all.  It is steep, exposed, committing, and route finding is a must.  When everything lines up as it did for us,  El Cap can be a challenging and very rewarding run.   When skiing above 1000' cliffs, any mistake is one mistake too many; this requires the utmost respect, and focus.  Excited for my next return to this fine Bitterroot test piece.