Tobacco Root early season

Photo Casey Greene

Ski season never really ended this year, or hasn't really since I moved to Montana.  Other than roughly a month off of skis sometime between August and September, skiing was my main focus this summer.  Snow unloaded over the mountains of west-central Montana late September, and I promised myself to hold off on the early season skiing until at least November.  Other than a quick day up Lolo Peak area soon after the storm, I was able to hold off.  Ive had a lot of free time with work slowing down and last week I biked Blue Mountain, Sheep Mountain, Stewart peak.  That was enough biking for the week, and many of my favorite rides had snow, so skiing was the logical plan for this weekend.  After talking and viewing maps Casey, Mickey and I decided the Tobacco Root mountains had the most snow in the state and decided to make the trip.  There was reportedly 4 feet of consolidated snow with some fresh, and that held true.

From Carlton Ridge, October 4th

Skinning form the trail head with heavy packs, we arrived at Bell Lake.  Our first thought was to find good snow on north facing aspects.  We begin climbing north facing Brahm peak, only to find unstable conditions and cross loading.  The last couple days in the Tobaccos must have been windy, next we climbed towards a north Coulior on Tomphson Peak only to find another touchy windslab at higher elevation.  Powder skiing was finally located on the protected lower elevations around the lake and we made our way back to cold PBRs and dinner at camp just west of Bell Lake.

Day two our goal was to get a look around this new mountain range from a summit.  We found a direct ridge to follow from the lake up to Thompson Peak.  Kicking steps in this shallow, breakable crust was difficult and unmotivating, thinking "this is why I don't need to ski in October".  The crust finally ended and turned to rock ice climbing/ scrambling until the summit, somewhat more reasonable.  We dropped into an icy, wind blown east facing chute ~1800' above the lake.  Much to my surprise the skiing was great.  The ice turned to powder and wind slabs were isolated.  Skiing down I hit no rocks, even got some snow in the face.

Monday morning I found myself back in Missoula with work called off and tired legs.  Great weather and a motivated partner we decided to mountain bike Sheep Mountain.  Trail was clear of snow to the summit with patchy snow on the north face switch backs into east fork rattlesnake.  The yellow larch were stunning and wildlife was out on our evening decent, as we stopped to watch a large rather curious bull moose along the east fork. A great weekend of skiing and biking off of Montana mountain summits with good company, every weekend should be like this.

Near the summit of Thompson Peak

Our line near Bell Lake

Back on mountain bikes

White Cloud Traverse via Bike Pack

 Bike - packing and The White Clouds.  Two things the common person does not know much about.  In fact before this trip I have only heard and seen pictures of them both.  When I say "we were riding in the 'White Clouds'" I am not referring to the fog that sometimes covers high peaks.  The White Clouds are a mountain range south east of Stanley, Idaho or due east of the jagged Sawtooth Range, or west of the towering Lost River Range.  The summits White Cloud range cannot be seen while driving on any paved road, leaving it somewhat forgotten in this remote part of the central Rockies.  This stunning range spotted with 11,000' peaks is in a way very unique.  Here horse packers, hunters, hikers, dirt bikers, and mountain bikers all recreate, in peace, on the same trails.  It seems as if everyone here is content with the way it is.  Dirt bikes stop and talk, horses smile and wave, the bikers yield, there seems to be plenty of room for us all.
When I got the call from Casey to head down the White Clouds to collect some more information and photos for Adventure Cycling's Hot Springs of Idaho bike packing route, I could not resist.  After all I am no stranger to living on my bike, or to ripping single track all day long.

Casey climbing with the Boulder Range in the distance

We started at Grand Prize trailhead east of Sawtooth City, Idaho.  Our three day two night loop would take us from deep canyons to 10,000' mountain passes, through alpine meadows, alongside alpine lakes, sage fields, hot spings and back to the car.  Our first day had the most vertical climbing and I was surprised how much harder it is to climb with the heavy load... should have listened to Casey and packed lighter, but push bike is always a doable option.

11,815' Castle Peak looking fine from Chamberlain Basin

Push bike at the end of an exhausting day over our third mountain pass just east of Castle Peak.

There was a gusty wind and the air was cold in the shade, but we finally made it to the top of Castle pass before dark.  Big, world class downhill from here.  Tossing off my backpack in joy on top I conveniently punctured the can of Sierra Nevada in my backpack, forcing me to drink the beer and watch the sun set over the Lost River while Casey raced down the alpine trail.

Shredding at 10000'.  Some awesome high alpine single track dropping in for a 13 mile 4000' downhill!

First nights camp along Little Boulder Creek

I woke up to sore legs the first morning, but one look to the map and Casey and I were both excited to check out the Boulder Chain Lakes trail across from our camp site.  This was a beautiful section of trail, an out and back ride from our camp.  We threaded our way through the crystal clear alpine-shelf style chain of lakes, the trail rocky and technical, just the way I like it.  Although it was a relief to ride without 30 pounds of gear strapped to my bike, I will mention much to my surprise how fun the bike still rode with the gear on.  With the extra gear the bike can be a little harder to toss around, but the increased traction on the front, and rear wheel is defiantly noticeable.

Casey enjoying the light load on an out and back up the beautiful Boulder Chain Lakes trail.  Castle Peaks north face in the background.

One of the six alpine lakes we passed on the Boulder Chain Lakes trail.

Loaded up again finishing our descent down to the east fork of the Salmon River.  Photo credit:  Casey Greene

We had 15 miles of dirt road on our roughly 95 mile loop... not too bad.

Hot springs.  Our second day and night we were rewarded with two amazing hot springs to soak in slightly off the trail. Our legs needed it to recover for climbing-filled our third day.  The second night was spent at the end of East Fork Salmon road aththe Bowery guard station.

The hard to find 'West Pass hot spring'

Relaxing at Bowery hot spring along the East Fork on our third morning.

It was an amazing three days spent riding some of the most fun, not to mention most scenic trail that I have been on.  But I cannot help to wonder if we will continue to ride here 10 years from now.  The Idaho Conservation League is pushing to turn the White Cloud range into a National Monument.  From my understanding, unlike wilderness areas, or national parks where we know the set rules, national monuments can have a verity of different management plans.  From no bikes, to no motorized use, or just the opposite.  I found most people who were actually recreating in this range are concerned that this national monument would be run similar to a wilderness area.  Closing most of our favorite trails, as well as the only trail that traverses the range, to mechanized use.  Im not sure how the White Cloud range will be managed down the road, I can only spread the word about the amazing experience we had in this unique place.

As always fell free to contact me for any more beta on our White Cloud mountain bike traverse.